Day 13 (6/8/21)-- miles traveled:~460

Location: Sargent Beach, TX

Science: air quality at RV park right on the water -- RVers who had been there days earlier reported that whatever was in the air coming off of the water had made everyone sneeze ad cough, but while I was there it seemed fine -- onshore wind continuous and strong.

This spot is where I encountered my second brisket (after Homer, GA) master -- Dave occupied the massive RV (complete with back grillling/smoking porch) parked right beside my tiny trailer and would not hear of me not sampling his prodigious array of personally raised/fed/butchered/processed/prepared meats. These included ham, brisket, pulled pork, hamburgers, and bologne. Yes. Bologne. 

But before we get into that any further, I should describe the drive into Sargent Beach -- it was really beautiful and full of bayous, intracoastal waterways, and houses on stilts. Many of the houses looked new or newly remodeled, which I assumed was because of recent hurricane damage. 

As I neared Sargent Beach itself, an obviously brand-new bridge structure loomed above the houses and waterways -- and I do mean loomed -- it was massive and hard to capture in photos (but see below for my best, quasi-safe attempts to capture it).

The views from this massive bridge/weird highway structure were incredible, clearly demonstrating the low-lying lands that comprise the surrounding geography -- 

When I pulled into Sargent Beach RV park, I was really REALLY looking forward to a nice shower and doing laundry. After situating myself carefully between two massive RV's I strolled over to the office and asked where the bathrooms were. "It's an RV park," the manager replied. "You are really supposed to be bringing your own bathroom with you. We are on an island and can't manage the extra water and sewage use -- sorry -- it is pretty clearly stated on our website, though."

I had to think for a minute. How could I manage this without possibly having to back out with that trailer at that moment? And my reservation was non-refundable.......as I was thinking and cursing and thinking some more, the manage piped up and pointed to the public beach about 1/4 mile from the site. "You know, they do have porta-potties there that you could use." 

And so I got a lot of exercise that night. And no shower. But then, Dave in the huge RV, wearing a "You May Be a RedNeck Dad if...." t-shirt, came to distract me from my disappointment. "What's that thing you got there?" he asked, pointing at the deployed air quality sensor, "Cable TV?" Which was a question I am growing very accustomed to at this point -- at Manatee Springs someone asked if I would be nice enough to share the WiFi password from what they thought was a heavy-duty satellite/internet antenna.

I answered Dave's question, and then he was called away by his family because it was his turn in their dominos game. 10 minutes later, Dave was back with other questions about air quality. He then complimented me on the work I'd done on my teardrop, so I returned with "Your RV looks like a great set-up -- particularly that back porch there -- do you cook off of it?"

Dave promptly took me on a semi-mandatory tour of his AIR CONDITIONED RV. I felt awkward but it was about 85% relative humidity and close to 90degC outside and any misgivings I had were immediately dispelled. The RV was HUGE.  

And it turns out Dave and his wife are caterers and specialize in organic meats. I was then provided with a piece of brisket -- just handed to me, no plates, no napkins -- like the candy it truly is in Texas. It was awesome. Then came the homemade onion rings (ate them cold but still delicious) and some jerky. 

Then his wife came into the living room as we were standing there talking and said/grumbled "I see you have met my husband."  

She and Dave exchanged looks and he said -- "gotta get back to dominos!"

I went back to my trailer and decided that the brisket and onion rings were enough dinner -- I was exhausted and got ready for bed. After my hike back from the beach portapotties, Dave was waiting by my air quality sensor, beer in hand. "Doesn't look like you got any dinner!" he said, gesturing at my immaculately unused galley.

"Oh, I ate some stuff -- I'm good," I lied. 

He arched his eyebrows and said, "Well whatever it is, it can't have been as good as our burgers and bologne. Get your ass in here and I'll feed you some real food." 

Um. So I went. 

He fed me a cold burger, that I again ate with no plate and bare hands as he proudly shared the history of his and his wife's catering business. He told me that his grilling skills were shown off on some sort of site called "GrillPorn." I started thinking that even though the burger was DELICIOUS and the AC certainly luxurious, I might just need to get out of there if I wanted to get any sleep because he seemed to just be getting going.......then he had me taste his country ham, his bologne (all really great), and started crowing "Oh man, I am going to finish you off RIGHT." 

"I am definitely going to FINISH you OFF!" he replied, and pulled out some homemade strawberry ice cream. It was a perfect finish to the cold meat buffet I had just been treated to. But also I felt a big need to get out of there. I couldn't eat anything more and his voice was getting a bit louder. His wife came in and again was unsuccessful in dragging him back to their never ending dominos game. 

"Be careful," she said to me as she deposited dirty dinner dishes in the RV kitchen (that was the size of my own kitchen back in Kingston), "he can really talk."

"OK, OK, one last thing," he laughed, waving his beer in the air. "I like to think about big things, see, and I was wondering if you knew anything about the secret civilizations that live on the North and South Poles."

"I'm sorry, what?"

"You know, that's the reason we can't see all of the poles using google -- they don't want us to know that there are secret cities kept at a constant 60 degrees there."

That is when I made my gracious "Got to leave early tomorrow, so time for bed" exit. And leave EARLY I did.

Here are some pictures from the site:

This was a sign outside of the nearest grocery store:

 

Day 12 (6/7/21) – miles traveled: ~ 375 miles

Locations: several – Dauphin Island beach in Alabama, Pass Christian beach in Mississippi, then Grand Isle State Park, Louisiana

Science: air quality data at three beaches, a few fires at Grand Isle State Park campground

I ended up leaving Ft. Pickens early in the morning because I didn’t like the vibe of the campground and I continued to be thoroughly embarrassed about my parking job the night before – it is so intense when you are the last to arrive at a crowded campground – everyone is sitting there with their after-dinner beers/cocktails watching you (an obvious “Yankee” no doubt) trying to park a tiny trailer (someone even called it my “baby trailer”)…….not unlike the scene when you are the last to arrive at a mooring spot with your sailboat…….

The beaches in Alabama and MS were gorgeous – beautiful green water, minor waves, white sand……

Dauphin Island, AL -- 

Pass Christian, MS -- 

Grand Isle State Park, on the other hand, was super windy and kicking up exquisite and very fine black sand. It was striking – the photos don’t quite capture the effect, but the water was reflecting as black with whitecaps frothing on each wave.

Here Is a video where I try to demonstrate the sand effect--

The folks camping at Grand Isle were very focused on grabbing dinner right out of the water, including this family that even carted in lobster/crab traps from their site.

Here is a video of them getting ready to deploy the traps --

When night fell here, there was a strange cricket or frog that made a weird sound like “nono” – I tried to figure out what it was, but never caught it. This was also the first spot I really ran into bad bugs……the storms along the Gulf had resulted in some major freshwater flooding in the lowlands (which included most of my "campsite") and the resulting mosquitos were numerous and fierce.

 

Day 11 (6/6) – miles traveled: ~334

Location: Fort Pickens State Park, FL

Science: air quality data – some campfires, but not many – camped on the coast, so good seabreeze going…..thunder storm came in for 2^nd half of the night

I got into the Fort Pickens site after the campground office closed – someone was in my reserved site already* so I tried to find another spot to grab (it was pretty full so there was a bit of nervousness involved as the sun started to set on me). I ended up finding some really nice folks who told me to take the spot next to them because they knew that the folks who had reserved it had left a day early. Phew. 

One minor "hitch" -- I had a very tough time backing into the spot and really made a few ridiculous maneuvers. Lots of chain rattling and screech braking. 

After entertaining the whole campground with my back-up shenanigans, I set up the air quality sensor, ate some raisin bagels and cream cheese, prepared all my gear for the coming thunderstorm, and went to sleep. Woke to big, bold thunderstorm – nothing obviously leaking so I went back to sleep. 

Some pics:

*upon closer inspection of my original reservations, I actually had gotten there a day late.......ooops.....:)....

Days 7-10 (6/2/21-6/5/21) -- miles traveled: ~415

Location: Manatee Springs State Park, Chiefland, FL

Science: air quality monitor in campsite #46 for first two days, then #60 for duration - lots of campfires going both evening and morning

Well, it wasn't manatee season here, but it sure had its share of alligators! Really exciting and beautiful spot. The water features were incredible -- beginning with the crystal-clear freshwater springs flowing out of an underwater cave system, that then flowed through a massive cypress swamp into the famous Suwannee River........the springs were refreshingly chilly and housed several large catfish and turtles (snorkeling was great). 

I discovered that I had forgotten to pack my paddleboard paddle when I went to try to paddle the springs out into the river, so I had to run into town to find a replacement. Like most small southern towns, Walmart SuperCenter was the only spot around and I reluctantly went in to grab a cheap paddle. An older woman saw me with the paddle and said "You cain't paddle board in the river here!" and I just chuckled. I was really not sure why she'd say something like that, since I'd seen a couple folks rent a paddleboard at the park earlier (although they only stuck to the clear waters). It wasn't until I got out onto the river itself and saw my first 7 foot alligator that I realized why she may have been concerned.......

I also got this video of a smaller one sunning with some turtles and then jumping off the log when I approached....when I came back to shore, I had a cheering section of campers who told me "Most of us were rooting for you out there, but we will admit that some of us were rooting for the alligator......"

The bald cypress swamp seemed straight from a fairy tale -- towering trees with swelled trunks covering a maze of waterways through thickets of their strange root knoblets.......even more puzzling was the addition of tiny deer wading through the shallows, and baby alligators hiding on tiny logs alongside baby turtles. 

More photos here

Here are a few other pics from this adventure:

My brother Michael drove back up to join me for a night and we spent a couple hours watching stars on the docks, listening to the deafening crickets and frogs, massive splashes from breaching river sturgeon, and smaller splashes from alligators hunting. The Suwannee River is a spectacular spot for watching/hearing wildlife and witnessing the richness where ecosystems (fresh springwater/brackish riverwater) merge.

Days 3-6 (5/29/21-6/2/21) -- miles traveled: ~450 

Location: Homer, GA -- home of David, Brittany, Lamar (and a little one on the way) 

Science: Air Quality sensor installed on back deck eating/grilling area

After waking up in my abandoned parking lot in Mint Spring, VA, I really felt like I was on the road -- be sure to notice how there is not yet a door on that side of the trailer, and no air vent on top.....:)....

On this drive, it was very clear I was entering an agricultural area --

Once I got to David's, I met my new nephews, Lamar (16 months) and Bowman (10 months)-- so precious. 

I also was greeted with a full steak meal (complete with crisping your steak bites over the fire) by Joe Dueker (meat griller/smoker extroardinaire). From left to right, this is my brother Michael, then brother David, then sister-in-law Brittany (with little one ready to arrive), sister-in-law Amanda, brother Joe, and surprise guest cousin McClure. Brittany's sister and brother-in-law area in the foreground. 

The next day, my brothers and I set to work on my trailer -- and little nephews Bowman and Lamar and Brittany and Amanda supervised. Here's Michael getting ready to cut out the other door with a new router. It lasted 10 seconds before it kicked the bit and ruined the collett. I HATE CUTTING ALUMINUM.

We got a lot done. I don't think a single other person besides me thought it would actually get finished, though -- and I definitely fielded some guff for the amount of stuff I had brought. Working in a garage was a revelation (thanks so much David and Brittany!). Also, I have at this point either mailed or left 3 full boxes of stuff that I no longer needed.......:)....and sending a 4th one soon. I have NEVER been accused of packing lightly!

Day 2 (5/28/21) --  miles traveled: ~ 450

Stop Location: Rest Stops in PA and Mint Spring, Virginia

Theme song: Rain On Me (Lady Gaga)

Science: None

Well, I woke up pretty sad and a little confused about what to do next. I spoke with Ilana who mentioned I should probably just ask an RV dealer to look at it -- so I called around without much hope -- it was Friday of Memorial Day weekend post-pandemic.........could not be a busier travel day to date!

I spoke with probably the only nice guy at Camping World, Kingston, who took pity on me and gave me a number for a friend of his who had been known to make "house" calls to do RV repairs. Slightly hopeful, I called his friend, Dave, who said the earliest he could come was 3pm. 

Resigned to the loss of another day, I promptly went right back to sleep, catching up on the past week of late nights trying to get on the road.

Dave came by just as a thunderstorm started to roll in. He was really kind and dedicated to getting the trailer up and running. First issue he found:  I had been short circuiting the wires for marker lights I hadn't finished hooking up. That fixed the trailer end of things -- but my car was now not supplying any power to the trailer. Huge, lazy raindrops started to fall on us. Dave had to run, with many apologies, to finish another outdoor job he was on 10 minutes away. He said if I couldn't figure it out by tomorrow to bring it by his shop in Olivebridge Saturday. I watched him leave. I sat in my car for a minute. Neighbors strolled by and waved to me. I felt really stupid and the idea of being stuck in my driveway another night just felt......sad. 

Rain started really coming down. I wondered if my trailer was going to really be waterproof -- it certainly looked promising......

One of the things Dave had mentioned before he left was that there may be a blown fuse in the car but he did not know where. I decided to unload the entire car to find it. And I did! That little 15amp fuse located under the back trunk was the culprit. I replaced it and suddenly the trailer lights were on and I was road legal again! At 5:30pm, then, I actually left the 146 Franklin Street driveway and was on my way. 

I drove for about 7 hours until stopping at two different rest areas on my way to Homer, GA, where my brother David lives.  It rained the entire way.......

I parked between some massive semis the first time at a rest stop somewhere in PA (or VA??) but couldn't sleep in the trailer (it was full of tools and gear) -- my car seat just wasn't that comfortable so I then drove another couple of hours to Mint Springs, VA (I think). I parked in an abandoned parking lot near a gas station and slept for another couple hours.

Day 1 (5/27/21) -- miles traveled: 0.0008

Heartbreakingly, I was already about a week behind -- missing time with my good friend Tema Okun at her beachhouse in Topsail, NC. Should have been there Tuesday.......but repairs and trailer work in general got in the way. I spent this day literally (truly, I mean that word the way it was meant to be used) throwing everything I thought I might need into the car and unfinished trailer (I had yet to cut out the starboard door and the top vent, among other basic things) to just be able to get on the road so I'd have at least a day with Tema.......I said goodbye to Ilana, Hannah, Rosie, Kemuel and Gremlin (as they embarrassingly left for their Cape Cod adventure before me), tested the trailer lights at 9pm to be sure it was at least road-legal, and by 11:30pm I was ready to head out, with the idea of stopping at a rest stop somewhere along the way. I locked the house up (escaping out the side door because I had no key), took one long look at 146 Franklin Street in the dark, and then was off. 

I got into the car, feeling a momentous sense of relief to be finally getting on the road, pulled forward 4 feet to the end of the driveway, and checked my mirror to be sure the trailer was following me. It was, but with no lights -- tail, brake, all were totally dead. 

I sat in the car for a bit, wondering what I was going to do now. I had no way to get back into the house. I had no idea why the light system would not be operating suddenly. I contemplated the possibility of sleeping in a car in my own driveway on my first roadtrip day.......until I remembered the random backdoor key Ilana had handed me earlier in the day when the entire family was helping me search for the key to the hitch for the trailer (we never found it -- I think I gave myself a hernia getting that lock off with a pair of wire cutters)........after sliding around under the trailer for about half hour to check if there were some obvious loose wires or something that could fix the problem, I sadly went back into the house to sleep at around 1am. That is where I discovered that I had left my car keys inside -- somehow one of the bags already in the car must have had the extra key fob for our hybrid in it (I did not find that until yesterday) that had allowed me to almost drive away.

I would discover the next day that I had been foiled by this tiny 15amp fuse:

Well, this is the very first blog post of my life -- here goes:

First, THANK YOU to each and every one of my family, friends, and colleagues and co-workers who have been part of making this trip possible!!!!

Second, I have kept this blog very light and have not included much interpretation/political musing -- I am reserving that for something that I'll hopefully put together later, once I get real perspective on this entire adventure. If you need more details, please let me know! And now, here's the blog:

I had promised everyone that I'd do some sort of blog associated with my epic "I am 50!" roadtrip research adventure, but really hadn't given much thought to how that might be a lot easier said than done.....so, here I am, about 2 weeks into said adventure and just getting around to sorting out how to blog.  I am going to document each day here, to get caught up, but first a few general musings:

1. I really have enjoyed my trip so far! I miss my family and friends (and even work!), though, and am constantly wishing I could share these amazing things I am experiencing with others -- so this blog is a way to give you all a piece of what is going on out here on the road. 

2.  Teardrop trailers are hard work and now I know why they say that the best 2 days of your life are when you buy your boat and then when you sell it.......my little ground-yacht is awesome but constantly needing attention........I think once this roadtrip is done, having the R/V Anchor's Drop go into permanent community science service will be a GREAT next step. Also, if you really need to have a teardrop travel trailer, be sure you have plenty of little brothers who love to tinker -- this trailer definitely wasn't ready for camping the first full week of my trip, but David, Michael, and Joe really helped me get it up to speed in GA and FL.

3.  I overpacked. And it has taken me two weeks to deal with that -- I have since sent 1 big box home through UPS, one box stayed with my brother David in Homer, GA, and one box went home with another brother, Michael, to West Palm, Florida. And still I have too much........

4.  Doing scientific field work is hard -- and somehow I had forgotten that from my grad school days. Feeling a bit re-humbled by all young researchers out there -- keep up that important tough work!

5.  Listening to Roxanne Dunbar Ortiz' An Indigenous People's History of the United States on Audible as I traveled through the East and Gulf Coasts fundamentally altered my perception of the United States. Should be required reading for all educators and college students. 

6.  It is not necessary to eat out at restaurants to sample local foods. At least in the south, all it takes is camping beside the right folks who generously offer brisket, brisket, brisket, and more brisket at every stop........I have eaten more meat in the past 5 nights than I have in the past year -- and of course all either hunted or grown personally by the folks offering the food (yes, I am in Texas). ALL of the food has been excellent. I even got to sample real boudin last night (with fresh-caught wild boar in it). I am not sure if it's just southern hospitality and/or the fact that what I'm cooking just makes folks feel bad for me?????